Deal or no deal

Each day the papers have the news about the possibility of a deal with the groups in the region bordering India. The widespread and violent strikes have blocked all transit of stuff for weeks which has resulted in shortages of most things and the price of commoidities to skyrocket (most foodstuffs are up 20% in the past 2 weeks).

One paper on Saturday said they were close to a deal, the other said the talks had failed. On Monday one paper reported a deal was reached Sunday night. The following day it said that the deal actually had not been reached. Today one paper said they would announce a deal today the other said the talks failed.

I am guessing there will be a deal and the election will take place. I am not sure it will have any legitamacy since the Maoist say they will have 200 men at each station for campaigning. In the event they lose, they have already been saying on a regular basis that the US does not want the election which will be their execuse for losing. Then who knows.

Petro Agitation

The conversations with my friends always include, "no gas, no cooking gas, no electricity, no water, no buses...the government is terrible." There has been no petro products in the area so schools, buses and ambulance are having trouble running. People are really fed up.

We thought there was a light at the end of the tunnel when the government put curfews in the area where the roads had been blocked preventing supplies to Kathamandu. Two days ago a few trucks make it to the city. The next day, all the trucks were hijacked on the way to Kathmandu by local people fed up with waiting for the products.

There are talks to settle the strikes. Unless they are settled, there is no way to have an election.

Turning to Love

Arranged marriage is a strange thing. As much as it goes against a few major parts of the culture I was raised in, I can see how it works. The man’s family will try to find a bride…they let people know what they are looking for (caste, age, education level). Sometimes they will put ads in the paper. Once they find a perspective bride, they meet with her, the family, and the neighbors. They will find out everything about her that they can. They will taste her cooking, which makes some sense since new brides always do all the cooking once they are married. The woman’s parents will try to check out the man too.

Suman, a colleague of Sandy’s, got married 2 weeks ago. It was an arranged marriage. She met the man 3 times before they married, so she moved in with and started having a life with a stranger and his family. She returned to work and Sandy has asked her about being married. Is it strange? Yes and no. The new family has the same customs and traditions, so not so strange. She must show respect to her new in-laws who she lives with. This entails bowing at their feet on a regular basis which is a little strange for her.

When Sandy asked her how the marriage is, she said it was an arranged marriage but now it is turning into a love marriage. In her mind, she feels like she has it all. Of course it is only two weeks, but if she is happy and it works for them, who am I to say what is best?

Day 3 of Anarchy

Yesterday I wrote about there being too many boys out on the street for my comfort. Because of this, Sandy and I stayed home to be safe. This turned out to be a good move because the riots continued from yesterday afternoon until the evening.

The riots had a very different feel to them. Friday seemed dangerous and a little scary...a person died and a building was burned. The Saturday was dominated by kids, who had a day off from school. They were mostly tormenting the police who responded mostly in kind. I say mostly because as injured boys walked by our house the police generally gave them kicks in the butt and slaps to the face.

There was an agreement last night and today is much quieter. I think the violence related to this incident is over, but there are still many problems. We will have to be careful.

Anarchy!

Two nights ago a young man made an inappropriate comment to a girl who was being escorted from a party... something that happens far too frequently here. The boy who was escorting the girl took exception to the comment. Ultimately, the boy who made the comment killed the other boy.

Rumors started flying...the murderer has killed many people before and served a small amount of prison time...the murderer is part of YCL (Young Communist League), but the rumor that got everyone excited was the murderer and his father were enjoying tea with the police in their canteen on Thursday.

Corrupt inept police, no electricity, no buses, no cooking fuel, water shortages...it was like a powder keg. This incident was the match. Thursday night it exploded. Hundreds of young men took to the streets around the police station which happens to be next to our house. There was a battle...the protesters with bricks, the police with tear gas. We went to school Friday after getting word that things would be quieter...the word was wrong. The protest started mid day. The school bus could not run and the school released the small children to their parents.

We waited a few hours and got word that things were clear...the word was wrong again. We walked a young boy home. We got halfway home and we saw a huge crowd of very young boys running in the streets. Shit...must be running from violence. As we got closer, we found they were running from a man wearing a costume and a traditional mask. They were having a celebration! It seems impossible to stop the celebrations.

We got close to our home in Durbar Square and we could hear the noise. The little boy was visibly shaken. Somehow I always feel like things will be ok. We kept trying all of the back alleys to get to his home which is close to ours. At every turn there was boys throwing bricks and tear gas.
We went down a hill to get around the violence and there was a mob 200 or so boys 150 yards away throwing bricks at the police. The boy was really afraid and I noticed he pee'd his pants. I put my arm around him and told it would be ok. Being a dope, I truly believed it.

Thankfully Bhaktapur is full of these tiny alleys that a little boy would love to explore. He found a way to get around all of the violence to our house. We released him to his visibly shaken mother and sister.

Along the way, we had run into a Canadian guy we had dinner two nights before. He was trapped and could not get back to where he was volunteering, so we had him in for safety. We have no electricity, no gas for cooking, and had just run out of drinking water. Thankfully we had gin so everything worked out ok. We went to our roof top to see the action which was on both sides of our house. For hours the police would shoot tear gas, charge the protesters and ultimately fall back for awhile. I made a short video which gives you a feel of how chaotic it was.


While we were on the roof, the protesters retook Durbar Square and were trying to throw bricks over our house at the police. One did not make it even close and hit our window which for some reason did not break (the pic below is the big smudge of a brick on our window).


Later in the day the protesters lit a building on fire about 100 yards from our house. When the fire engine came, it was stoned and the windshield was smashed. The building could not be saved.
There was a curfew from 7 pm last night and people followed it for the most part. Unfortunately one boy did not and the police shot and killed him.

Things seem quiet today, but there are too many boys out for my liking. I think they are mostly looking at the widespread destruction in town, but you never know.

Yes mom, we are being careful...do not worry (its in the mom and dad job description so I am guessing this is a stupid request).

Small Inconviences

Due to strikes in the region near the border and the reversal of the price increases from a couple of weeks, we have a few inconviences to go with the lack of electricity.

• 70-90% of buses are not running and many cars are abandoned due to lack of petrol.
• LP is in short supply (there is none so I would qualify this as short). Some restaurants are closing and people like us who happened to run out are out of luck. Some people got some after waiting a few weeks.

This combined with the constant "agitation" by various groups means there is some stress right now. I can not imagine that they will have the desperatly needed elections in two months if things do not change quickly.

Durbar the Super Dopey Dog

There are plenty of street dogs here (and all developing countries it seems) but none like Durbar.

I think Durbar is a mix of Black Labrador Retriever and a shoe (the shoe part is where he gets his brains). We call him Durbar because he lives in front of our house in Durbar Square. He is a large remarkably friendly dog that has not realized he is a street dog. We actually seek him out on a daily basis for a few minutes of dopey dog play.

Durbar’s greatest claim to fame is his fondness of Chinese people. Whenever he sees them (not local people or western people) he is compelled to literally run over to them and just mingle…sometimes smelling a butt or two. I am fond of watching this because inevitably a woman looks down at Durbar. Big mistake! Durbar takes this as a sign that he is supposed to jump up on the woman. At that point, the woman always shrieks. Of course, Durbar, due to his immense intelligence, takes this as a sign to lick and nibble on the woman. Ultimately, the woman gets him off of her and Durbar goes back to the butt smelling

thing. Quite entertaining.

Another day, another celebration

We met Jamuna by chance...a kid who knits clothes and sells them near us. She is 13 years old and I am begining to believe that she is as wonderful as I had hoped (it sucks being so jaded).

Jamuna invited us to her house for a special Puja, blessing ceremony, that was attended by her whole family and done by their priest. The priest chants using an ancient sanscript that few understand except the priest. The ceremony involves a whole lot of rice throwing and giving of flowers and burning incense. Which was as interesting as it sounds until an ember flew out of the fire right into my eye...ended up in bed for the rest of the day and night, but all is well now.

Nowin Nothin

We went to a Rotary club meeting Saturday morning and met a woman who has a little literacy project here. She started her project with 14 friends 5 years ago. They now have 80 students.

We have made two trips to the school to get a feel for it and have found some amazing things:

• they get no government support because they will not join the local communist party that controls the education system here.


• They charge the students 100 rupees (a buck and a half) for the 3 classes a day they perform. 25% of the students cannot afford this, so they are getting scholarships.


• They teach by candelight a few days a week due to load shedding (see next post).


• None of the staff get salaries.


• The parents of the staff scold them because they do not get salaries.


• They make their own basic books to save money.


• No NGO's are helping them

When we were getting ready to leave last night, one of the students was crying in the hallway. She did not want to quit studying, but she did not have 100 rupees for her tuition. Of course, we wanted to just kick in the money, but the last thing we want to do is be known for giving money because everyone will start looking to us for it. The school is giving her a scholarship now.

We have become so distrustful of people here and are not willing to help in any significant way until we feel very comfortable that this is not just another scam. We are going to make a few more trips and then we will consider helping.

Welcome to the Dark Ages

We wake up to the same question every morning, “will there be electricity?” Nepal, which is said to have some of the greatest opportunities for hydro electricity, has very little of the stuff coming out of the sockets.

When we arrived here in the rainy season, the rivers were high and there was nearly enough electricity. We only had 4 hours of load shedding (a nice way of saying blackouts) a week. At that point it was almost romantic…candlelit dinners was the only inconvenience.

Now we have load shedding for 8 hours a day 6 days a week. Monday is our only day with no load shedding. Of course, this means nothing since we had no juice for 3 hours this morning (nick named over-shedding).

Our house has no insulation and the only means of heat is our little electric heater. It is generally about 50 degrees in our house, so we go outside when it is sunny to try to get warmed up.

Showers are pleasant until you get out. We have a gas water heater which gets us nice and warm. Then we open the bathroom door and step into the 50 degree bedroom. We start to shiver and put on our clothes (which are cooled to a convenient 50 degrees also). 50 degrees may not seem that cold, but let me tell you naked and wet…not good.

In the next couple of weeks, the load shedding will go up to 11 hours a day. My favorite columnist, whose columns have the bite of an alligator, says that only in Nepal could people put a positive spin on this and say it is better than last year (it was 13 hours a day then). Later in the article he proposed the next tourism slogan, come to Nepal to visit the dark ages.

I am told things start to get better when the rain picks up…till then we will spend a lot of time under the blankets.